Man ir gāze/benzīns. Esmu ievērojis, kad nav gāzes, tad uz benzīna pielec daudz ātrāk.:angry: Tā kā drošvien, ka vaina ir padevē...

man jautaajums par bagaazhas nodaliijumu - tas ir lietainaa laika vinsh kkur sasuucas slapjsh no apakshas.. tas ir paceljot to paklaajinju, kursh apsedz rezerves riteni, maniiju shaadu diivainiibu..
ka vareetu to noveerst?

Eu, manam 900 (9-3 priekštecim) arī tas pats!!!
Kapē??

1 3 wrote:veselais saprāts liek domāt, ka būtu jānoskaidro, kur ir caurums :dry:

Caurumi tur ir daži ;) Aiztaisīti ar gumijas "zagluškām" Un - ja ziemā pabraukā pa kupenām vai kkā tā tmldz, tad tās vietas tiek satraumētas un nāk rez riteņa nodalījumā mitrums.

ļoti bieži problēma ir blīvējumā ap lampām, bagažnieka vāku etc..
tie mazie cauruminji nevareetu buut pie vainas

man kad bembiits veel bija, peec automatiskaas moikas vareeja akvaariju bagažniekā ierīkot, jo lielais spiediens vienkārši to gumiju nobliež ;)

tatad klima nestraadaa puush riktiigi sito gaisu vai tikai auksto... nopiedu auto un off vienlaciigi paraadijaas aughsaa 02 un pakaahaa viena iedaljinja, ja perezi saprotu tad uzradas shita kljuda:
2
Cabin temperature sensor
Open circuit or short to B+
B1350

+ aaraa tempertuura uz sid ir galiigi greiza..

shito gljuku kur var atrast ko nomaniit paarbaudiit?

Kangars wrote:tatad klima nestraadaa puush riktiigi sito gaisu vai tikai auksto... nopiedu auto un off vienlaciigi paraadijaas aughsaa 02 un pakaahaa viena iedaljinja, ja perezi saprotu tad uzradas shita kljuda:
2
Cabin temperature sensor
Open circuit or short to B+
B1350

+ aaraa tempertuura uz sid ir galiigi greiza..

shito gljuku kur var atrast ko nomaniit paarbaudiit?

Vainu "Vikngi", vainu pats;

B1350

Indoor Temperature Sensor. Short to Ground


Indoor Temperature Sensor. Open Circuit / Short to B+


Fault symptoms
Perceived temperature in cabin too high or too low compared to the set temperature.
Conditions
The following conditions apply:

• Open circuit or short to B+ on pin 20 >4.9 V.
• Short to ground on pin 20<0.1 V.
• Measured every 440 ms and 5 consecutive measurements are required to set a diagnostic trouble code.
• The diagnostic trouble code is deleted after the ignition has been switched on 20 times if the malfunction conditions have not been fulfilled.
• When the diagnostic trouble code is set, the control module uses a default value. When the ignition is turned on, the outside temperature is used as a default value and after that, a mean value of the calculated temperatures at head height for the front seat passenger and the driver is used.

bagazhnieka ir ventilacija, caur vinju iet mitrums. janotirit un izolet vienu zemaku nodolju. un vis bus ok.

Jautājums gan par citu tēmu.Riteņu diskiem tas cipars ET39 piemēram.Riteņa aploces izbīdījums attiecībā pret centru?(tb rumbu)Jo lielāks cipars,jo lielāks izbīdījums uz āru vai otrādi?Kaut kā reizēm sāk likties,vai nav otrādi...

No; http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg2.html

It may sound counterintuitive, but when you increase the inset of a wheel, you decrease the clearance between the inner edge of the wheel and the suspension components. In the example below, the red wheel has a larger inset - ie. the distance from the mounting face to the centreline of the wheel is larger than that of the green wheel. The grey blocks indicate a stylised mounting hub, axle and suspension component. You can see that by increasing the inset (positive offset) of the wheel, it pushes the inner edge of the wheel and tyre closer to the suspension. Conversely, decreasing the inset moves the wheel and tyre closer to the outside of the vehicle where it might scrub and rub against the bodywork and wheel arches. It might help to think of this more in terms of overall offset rather than inset and outset. The most positive the offset, the more the wheel is tucked into the car. The more negative the offset, the more the wheel sticks out.




A real example
They say a picture is equivalent to a thousand words, so study this one carefully. It's one of the alloy wheels off one of my old cars. Enlarged so you can read it is the wheel information described above. You'll notice it reads "6J x 14 H2 ET45". The "6J x 14" part of that is the size of the wheel rim - in this case it has a depth of 6 inches and a diameter of 14 inches (see the section directly below here on wheel sizes for a more in-depth explanation). The "J" symbolises the shape of the tyre bead profile. (see rim contours below)
The "H2" means that this wheel rim is a double hump design (see hump profiles, below). The "ET45" figure below that though symbolises that these wheels have a positive offset of 45mm. In other words, they have an inset of 45mm. In my case, the info is all stamped on the outside face of the wheel which made it nice and easy to photograph and explain for you. On most aftermarket wheels, they don't want to pollute the lines and style of the outside of the wheel with stamped-on information - it's more likely to be found inside the rim, or on one of the inner mounting surfaces.

lawyer wrote:Jautājums interneta diagnostiķiem un 9-3 OG 2.2 TiD lietotājiem...

Manējais nekad nelec no pirmā apgrieziena, kad ir pastāvējis, citreiz pat pielec tikai no kāda piektā/sestā... Tas taču nav normāli?! Aķis it kā ir sūdīgs, bet tāpat griež... Pirms kāda laika neleca vispār - tad nomainīju atgaisošanas trubiņas un viss kļuva O.K. Kas varētu būt par problēmu? Aķis jānomaina? EGR jāiztīra?

Dzirdēju, ka šādu problēmu var radīt nodilušas degvielas iesmidzinšānas sprauslas... Spečuki, kāds jūsu viedoklis?

Cik liels aķis?
Man pēdējās problēmas bija ar aķi.
Kā arī tika nomainītas kvēlsveces.

Aķis man ir kaut kāds mazs apkalpojamais (oriģinālais bija lielāks), bet tāpat griež... Bet kvēlsveces jau vēl nav nācies izmantot šajā sezonā...